NICARAGUA - 2nd to 6th December 2009

Introduction

Known as the land of volcanoes and lakes, Nicaragua is a tropical paradise with neat picturesque colonial towns and a welcoming population – 70% made up of Mestizos, 15% European, 10% African and 5% indigenous people.

Background and History

Early Nicaraguans left their footprints here 6000 years ago and several indigenous tribes occupied the diverse terrain when the Spanish subjugated them from 1524. With the Spanish settling the Pacific lowlands, the English (really pirates) were the dominant influence on its Caribbean side in the 17 th century. Political and civil conflict between Spanish colonial cities persisted into the mid 19 th century even after freedom from Spain in 1821, and complete independence in 1838. The country then became a political battleground for power with Britain and the USA the main culprits. Corrupt governments from the early 20 th century were largely influenced by the US's marines until their departure in 1933 and the Somoza family dynasty then dictated the next 4 decades (with USA's support). Rising opposition to their corrupt empire saw activists from FSLN (Sandinistas) in 60's and it escalated into a year long revolution in 1978 with the left wing in power. The threat of the communist influence persuaded the US to fund the counter revolutionary contras throughout the 80's until economic problems and the UNO formed by opposition parties (and financed by the USA ) gained power in 1990. The contras then stopped fighting, but scandals, corruption and US intervention still plague Nicaragua with Ortega starting a new leftist era in 2007.

Our Experience

Entering the country was relatively easy with the aid of helpful guides and officials, just a lot of paying - $7 per person immigration, $5 municipal fees for driving and $12 for Tipperdee. But we were in and it was just a joy to drive through – great roads where Tipperdee could again cruise at 100km/hr! It just generally felt a lot safer, appeared cleaner and people seemed more approachable. The first major town was sleepy Ocotal with all the facilities for filling up with diesel and getting cash. The easy drive bypassed Esteli as we headed south for Leon – it just got a lot hotter as we descended the highlands with more ‘cowboys' than in the wild-west!

Despite 1½ hours at the border, we packed in 400km since our last nights stop in Honduras . We were in Central America 's most volcanic region with a chain of 10 volcanoes paralleling the Pacific coast and rising out of hot agriculturally rich lowlands. Once Nicaragua 's capital, Leon is one of the country's colonial jewels with a proud artistic, religious and revolutionary history. But we spent most of the first day just enjoying the friendly facilities of the highly recommended Lazybones Hostel's pool and free internet. Late afternoon was cooler and perfect to take in town life, especially around parquet central, the cathedral ( Central America 's largest) and many other colourful churches. To really dip into the culture, we licked our lips at El Buen Gusto where you can choose from a variety of cheap home cooked comida corriente. Apron-clad mamas dished up heaps of gallopinto (rice and beans), pollo encaldillo (a sweet chicken curry), guiso de pipiau (root veg in a type of white sauce) or bistec (steak and onions) with torta de papa rellena (a potato fritter) – unfortunately that was all a plate could handle! Before our midday departure on 4 th December, Gary squeezed in some of the city's revolutionary history capturing the dramatic murals around town, art in the former Sandinista headquarters at Casa de Cultura and photos of fallen FSLN heroes at Galeria de Heroes y Martines.

Just 20km west of Leon was the Pacific Ocean and the beaches of Poneloya. But we just did a drive-by as the little beach village was without any real draw. So we continued south via Lago de Managua with the perfect cone of Volcan Momotombo always in sight. We skirted past the capitals craziness and up into the mountainous coffee growing region dotted with clean, pretty villages known as the Pueblos Blancos. Just after sunset we settled in to camp at Mirador Catarina, an appealing vibrant village. The next morning we could appreciate the term ‘mirador' when the panoramic sweeping views of Apoyo Crater Lake and distant Lago de Nicaragua unfolded.

The 5 th December was a busy a day. We first took in Masaya, the country's epicentre of artesanias (handicrafts) at Mercado Viejo – an organised market set within ornate carved basalt walls punctuated with numerous portals. The lively town has the usual plethora of churches and busy plazas but is also picturesquely set on Laguna Masaya with views of active Volcan Masaya steaming away nearby. 20km further and on a rather brown Lago de Nicaragua, is the restored 1524 colonial city of Granada . Typical colourful courtyard enclosed homes, elegant churches and a very busy Saturday shopping street scene greeted our arrival. Affordable accommodation with secure parking was again tough so we spent most of the day simply strolling the streets, savouring a lunchtime buffet at the local Los Bocaditos and capturing the city views from the bell tower of Iglesia la Merced.

By late afternoon we were in south western Nicaragua on the inter-American highway to Rivas whose lake port, San Jorge has ferries to Isla de Ometepe. The total return trip for ourselves and Tipperdee was a rather pricey $50 and after some hesitation we decided to bite the bullet to this unusual island formed by twin conical volcanoes rising out of a lake and linked by an isthmus from lava flows. The ferry took jut over an hour and we arrived in total darkness at the make shift port in San Jose . Fortunately just 1km away was Playa Venecia where we stumbled into Hotel Finca Venetia to camp for $5. The cost however was ‘offset' by a good few local rums leading to all kinds of conversation with Johann Gomez, a relative of the owner. A hellish night followed as Dane had us up most of the night with cramps and dozens of episodes of vomiting. Fortunately this settled during the course of the following day when we explored the islands roads that led through primary forest and small coastal settlements adorned with Xmas decorations. He really came alive when flocks of green parrots or blue-tailed birds called Urracas were spotted. Despite still vomiting he could not resist a dip in healing crystalline waters bubbling into a pool at Ojo de Agua. This ‘Eye of the water' set in a jungle is an absolute piece of Eden . The road around Volcan Maderas is rough and rocky though fascinating to experience plantain farming communities playing baseball or worshipping along the road as they parade with a statue of the Virgin Mary. We however could not find that perfect beach spot and spent the night back at Venecia.

Early the following morning we were back on the mainland and a drive of 40km further south took us to Penas Blancas, the border crossing into Cost Rica. Leaving Nicaragua cost $3 per person and the disorganised triple check procedure for immigration and customs took 3 hours! But hey, we were in our final Central American country!

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