Lithuania – 18 to 20 th July 2008

Labas – to our final Baltic country, with a huge history and sites to match. After yet another non existent border post, we were zapping through the country that extended to the Black Sea in the 1400's after ancient tribes were united. But the large empire was cut up by Russia and Prussia in the 18 th century. After WWII's genocide and the fierce struggle through Soviet years, Lithuania was the first state to declare independence in 1990. A land of lush forests and lakes mark the flat landscape between villages of old wooden houses and Soviet blocks of flats. A fitting introduction to the Lithuanian spirit was the awe inspiring eerie Hill of Crosses just north of Siauliai . A perfect lunch stop! GR3 headed off first, soon followed by GR1. We soon found ourselves in the middle of a dreadful cloudburst and GR1 took shelter at a nearby wooden structure while GR3 sheltered at the monastery. Dean, however, managed to slip and slide down the hill, covering his bum and lower back with mud. Ironically, this happened just after he tried to explain to the kids and Vanita, how they should walk in mud to prevent getting wet or slipping! This hillock is blanketed by thousands of different sized and decorated crosses. Some are devotional but most are memorials to the many deported to Siberia . It may have started after the legend of a man who erected a cross after his daughter's illness was miraculously cured or in the 18 th century, as a response to the Russian invasion. But despite being repeatedly burnt and bulldozed by the Soviets post WWII, people risked their freedom to express their national and spiritual fervour. This strange place has a holy atmosphere and a Franciscan Monastery has been erected near by following Pope John Paul II's initiative.

That night, we had more of a Lithuanian ‘baptism' while bush camping near a lake further south east. We met 2 young men who could just about speak English and who were infatuated meeting people of colour from Africa ! The kids were spoilt with ice-creams and the GR men's arms were twisted to partake in the local beer and neat vodka's!! The two Globerider men eventually climbed into bed much later than expected after some wrestling and loud burping from the intoxicated locals. The next day Vanita had to take over the driving to our campsite near Trakai, needless to say, Dean had a rather tough night!

Most of the day at Kempingas Slenyje in a forested area at Lake Galve was spent recovering, with the rain as a constant companion which gave Vanita an opportunity to do a long awaited spring clean of ‘My Van'! The following day the clouds had lifted and we did a 30km day trip to the capital, Vilnius . Known as the Baltic Jerusalem due to myriad of ancient baroque churches, this medieval city's old town is less ‘intimate' with a sprawling cathedral square at its heart. During WW2 many Vilnius Jews were slaughtered in its ghettos and at the Paneriai death camp. At the opposite end of its old town the last remaining 16 th century Gate of Dawn houses a black and gold Virgin Mary Chapel, one of Polish Catholicism's holiest icons. In the district of Uzupis, east of the old town, dreamers and artists have unofficially declared their own state with a tongue-in-cheek 41 point constitution (of contradictions) along one of the main streets. Bizarre! After a torrent down pour, GR1 headed back to the comfort of the van for shelter, resuming later for supper at one of the restaurants - a rather measly portion of chicken breast which GR3 also experienced. GR3 ended their day with a telephone call to Enid to wish her a ‘Happy Birthday'.

By nightfall we were back along Lake Galve , bush camping with a view of Trakai's fairy island castle, a red-brick gothic castle dating back to the 14 th century. Zack lost his first milk tooth, while at the restaurant earlier that day and insisted that the ‘Tooth Fairy' should bring him Euro currency in exchange for his tooth. He was very pleased and once again told everyone he knew and those he didn't, that his first tooth had fallen out and all excited, climbed into bed that evening, with his tooth under his pillow. The ‘Tooth Fairy' must have listened, as he awoke the following morning to find a two Euro coin!

Destroyed by wars and neglect, the Trakai Castle was painfully restored since the 1950's and was the centre of the ancient capital, Trakai. This area is also famous for the Karaites, a sect that originated in Iraq and were brought here 600 years ago as bodyguards. The small wooden housed streets of Trakai were worth exploring to sample a kibinai, the Karaite meat-stuffed pastry. Yet again, another almost unfortunate incident occurred when Dean lost his wallet while visiting the toilet, but after persuading the attendant that she might have his wallet, it was returned with all cash and cards still present - what a relief!!!

By mid afternoon and a long drive west via Marijampole we had another easy border crossing into Poland . We ventured into the 3 Baltic states without expectations and like many things unexpected, we were pleasantly surprised and delighted by their treasures! We seemed to be flying through Eastern Europe but m aybe, just maybe, Turkey still remained foremost on all our minds - hot days, blue skies, and sandy beaches!!

Viso Gero!