Italy - 2 to 16 Sept / 29 Sept to 7 October 2007 (GR1)

Buongiorno from GR1! Welcome to the land of the Romans, the Renaissance and the kingdom of Italy , proclaimed in 1861. After a 3 hour wait for immigration clearance on board the ferry from Tunisia , we flew through customs and entering Europe through Sicily did not cost us a cent. We did not even need insurance - what a pleasure !

Quiet Palermo on a Sunday was beautiful, but the only campsite was north at Trinacria. We had to get used to Euro's as the camping cost about R300 a night! Pizza, Pasta and Red Wine was a joy for our evening meal although reading the menu was challenging. The next day we were awestruck by Italian engineering, driving along the autostrade, we passed through 90 tunnels (Jade's counting) and countless bridges across Sicily to Messina to catch the ferry to the mainland at Calabria . Negotiating the off ramps were a job but everything seemed so organised coming from Africa . We continued north for about 250km and camped in rural Italy in a parking lot of some hotel near Salerno . The scenery both inland and along the coast was gorgeous. The next 3 days were spent at the organised Camping Zeus just outside the entrance to Pompeii . Ancient Pompeii , destroyed in 79AD by Mount Vesuvius eruption, and rediscovered in the 16 th century with ongoing excavations, was splendid. The amazing opulence 2000 years ago with the Forum baths, bakery, lavish homes and lifestyle necessitated the kids getting a quick sex education briefing due to the rather explicit frescos on the walls of the Lupanare (Brothel). The other highlights - theatres, colloseum and the displays of the victims captivated us for most of the day. The late afternoon was spent on a fabulous drive to Sorrento along the Amalfi coast on hair- raising narrow streets, seeing Positano and Praiano which are perched on sheer cliffs.

The 6 th of September we used our feet after a train trip to explore Napoli . The centuries old buildings and especially the sculptures and paintings in the Duomo and architecture of the 13 th century castle Nuovo were inspiring, but the vibrant street life is what Naples is all about. The longer scenic coastal road led us to Rome and we spent the next 5 days along Lake Bracciano , camping at Porticciolo. We needed some R&R to clean, wash clothes and teach the kids and spent 2 days commuting to Rome by train to see the sights. What history, architecture and atmosphere. The kids had to labour through numerous buildings with all their art. The Vatican museum with Michelangelo's famous works in the Sistine Chapel, his 1546 design of St Peter's Basilica, the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Colloseum and Roman Forum ruins with numerous engaging Piazzas like Navona were just too much! For more, we headed below Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione, where 4000 monks who died between 1528 and 1870 are artfully displayed in the Cappucin Crypts - eerie, but captivating. Finally, Castel Sant Angelo with Emperor Hadrian's mausoleum (130AD) and great views from the rooftop ended our sightseeing of Rome .

Driving through beautiful Tuscany , we headed for the cradle of the renaissance in the 15 th century, Florence ( Firenze ). Home to Dante, Michelangelo and Medici, its artistic heritage was apparent viewing it from our camp called Michelangelo. To see the amazing 13 th century marble Duomo, 14 th century Ponte Vecchio (only bridge to survive the WWII bombing) and the numerous galleries, especially David, through a crack in the glass (too expensive to enter!) was awesome. The Vecchio Palazzo framed the Piazza della Signoria with all its outdoor sculptures and swarming tourists, us included!

The next day was rather sad as GR2 and GR3 headed west to Pisa and its leaning tower and Gr1, east to Ancona for Croatia . Dean and Deidre secured jobs in GB 6 weeks earlier than anticipated and had to make their way via Venice , Milan and France to the British Isles . Dean was also rather desperate to get a new set of tyres in Milan as he had his fill of changing tyres.

GR1 arrived back in Italy via Slovenia , bush-camping 40km before Venice . The 30 th September was to savour magical and expensive Venezia with its canals and bridges. The 11 th century St Marks Basilica set in Piazza San Marco with the adjacent 9 th century Palazzo Ducale (seat of Doges) and bridge of Sighs were just made for the story of Casanova. What a joy to cruise the Grand Canal in a vaporetto (water taxi) past amazing architecture. Unfortunately the gondola rides were 100 euros for about ½ hour and Jo-Anne couldn't resist asking the guide if that price included a meal and music! Camping Fusina hit the spot after roughing it with its pizza's, active bars and gave us a chance to catch up with rugby on the big screen. Luckily we met a couple of South Africans there and enjoyed and cheered together as South Africa totally smashed the USA ! We then headed west to Verona , another beautiful city and the seat of family feuds in the 13 th century on which Romeo and Juliet is based. We couldn't resist taking a picture outside the so called home of Juliet which has now become a tourist attraction. We also had to see the 12 th century Duomo, amazing Piazza dei Signori and Bra with the 1 st century arena, before finding a safe place to camp along lake Garda.

The next day was a most scenic drive along lake Como and Lecco with the Italian Alps as a backdrop, before organising ourselves at camping Montorfano, just outside Como. Apparently George Clooney has a home in Lake Como but we were not available to visit due to our hectic schedule!

The 3 rd of October we headed for Milan , to meet up with the rest of the Globeriders at Malpensa Airport initially to do the tyre change. Thanks Gordon, of Continental, for what must have been a logistical nightmare. The cousins were ecstatic to see each other after 2 weeks and the adults had to celebrate with some vino! The next day was another sad goodbye as GR2 & 3 continued to Spain before their work in Great Britain and GR1 set off to Milan 's centre founded by Celtic tribes in the 7 th century BC. Today, all we see is fashion and to get away from the money, we explored the 15 th century Castello Sforzesco with Michelangelo's unfinished Pieta and the unbelievable Duomo commissioned in 1386 and only finished 600 years later! We had to admire Prada and D&G walking along Gallerria Vittorio Emanuele 11 to Piazza della Scalla with its famous opera house & Leonardo's statue.

The evening we spent with Sean (Jo-Anne's relative) and Sara, enjoying home cooked pasta alforno and tasting a gooey fruit called cachi which looks like a tomato but tastes something like a prickly pear without the pips. That evening we slept outside Sean's apartment and we awoke to a great Saturday market around our vehicle. After satisfying ourselves with fresh goodies, we took the autostrade to Genova and a drive along the Italian Riviera to Portofinno. Heading back west we spent the night along the highway after a game of cricket in the parking area.

Our last day in Italy was spent with a german couple Welf and Christine who kindly invited us along in their rent-a-car to visit Monaco as a day trip, thanks! Unbelievable that this tiny sovereign state has been ruled by the Grimaldi family since 1297 and that citizens do not pay taxes! The old city houses the Palais du Prince and we just had to experience the family's home with its state apartments and treasures. Sad to visit the Cathedrale and see Prince Ranier and Princess Grace's tombs. Of course a drive along the road where the Grand Prix is held to Monte Carlo and its famous Casino had to follow, but unfortunately we were under-dressed to visit. A fitting end to a great time in Italy was our last night in San Remo at Camping Villaggio dei Fiori along the gulf of Genova and to savour focaccia as we crossed into France the next day.

Ciao

GR1 Globeriders Cape2cape