Iran - 8 September to 10 October 2008

Salam! – to one of the more fundamental Muslim countries that is also graced with friendly, inviting and beautiful people. The first great Persian Empire, the Archaemenians, date back to the 6 th century BC until Alexander the Great invaded Iran in the 4 th century BC. These divided Farsi (Persian) people who followed the Zoroastrian religion then had frequent conflicts with the Romans until the Arab control from the 7 th century AD for the next 500 years. The Seljuk Turks had their period in the 11 th and 12 th centuries when the Mongols conquered and devastated during the 13 th and 14 th centuries. Persian renaissance started with the Saffavids in the 1500's and different Shahs (kings) dynasties until the last Shah changed the English name of Persia back to Iran in the 1970's and his post oil boom mismanagement led to the revolution and Shiite control under Ayatollah Khomeini in 1979. Things are slightly more relaxed now but our women especially had to adapt to the more conservative dress code with just their faces exposed.

We left our last Turkish campsite, the Lalezar Campsite, with Chris and Julia, around seven thirty the morning and comfortably drove the forty five minute drive to the Turkish/Iranian border in Bazargan, a real frontier town on the Iranian side of the border. Vanita, Jo-Anne and Julia's anxiety levels grew as they donned their bonne's, head scarves, long pants and tops covering all parts of their bodies. The guys wore full trousers and long-sleeved shirts.

After easy going Turkey , we immediately had a taste of the country's beaurocracy when customs insisted on a valid carnet for the vehicles despite the AA's advice that we did not need one. The AA in Johannesburg was excellent in their assistance and that very day the carnets were issued and DHL contacted to deliver. Little did we know that we had to spend the next 10 days at the boring remote one street desert border town as we waited for delivery of the carnet de passage from South Africa . It seemed as if it travelled throughout the entire Middle East before eventually reaching us. We spent the first night in our vehicles right at the border but the next day we were moved to a holding area where GR1 spent the next 9 nights while GR3 opted for the $US40 a night basic room at Hotel Hamid as Zack, Troy and Vanita would not manage being cooped up in their vehicle for the next few days. The only meal available was an Iranian soup served with a flat almost paper thin bread known as lavash, followed by juje (chicken) kebab with rice and a cheesy yogurt. Thankfully our vehicles had tasty alternatives which were often complemented by the more delicious, thicker, saltier latticed bread called taftan. The long wait to travel through Iran gave us time to catch up on washing (in a very unpleasant bathroom) teaching duties, reading, reflection and fine tuning of our patience, but the kids became so adapted to their sparse surroundings that they wanted to stay a few more days when the carnets arrived! Scattered junk in the unkempt grounds of customs and feeding spiders while observing them spin their webs and cocooning their pray kept Jade and Dane entertained for hours (it even allowed Jo-Anne an afternoon nap!). Unbelievable what little things an imagination needs! GR3 also managed to catch up on teaching, reading about Iran , having multiple showers, watching movies on the laptops, and Dean practicing the guitar.

Eventually after DHL had our carnets travel to Esfahan, then Bagdad and Dubai and back to Tehran , we had someone drive 260km from Tabriz to deliver it in Bazargan. All thanks to our parents, Sherwin (a friend in SA) and a resourceful Steven from DHL. Customs took another hour to do the paper work and by 4pm we finally were on the road again, all excited – what a great feeling!! We felt like novice travellers again, captivated by the Kurdish mud brick villages and rural people gathering their tomatoes, processing massive sunflowers and herding their sheep as the road led east in a desert landscape between brown mountains with green valleys where the odd river meandered. We covered 280km by nightfall and wild camped just past Tabriz , happy to see these sights and ecstatic that the fuel costs about R0,13c a litre – 140 times cheaper than Europe 's prices!

Continuing east via Zanjan, we stopped for lunch after 300km in the once great Mongol city of the early 14 th century – Soltaniye, known as the town of the Sultans. Its claim to fame is the impressive mausoleum of the Sultan Oljeitu with exquisite plaster mouldings and mosaic tile work inside a massive dome, the largest Islamic version ever built. Originally intended as a shrine to the Prophet Mohammad's son-in-law Ali, the Mongol Sultan was however buried here in 1317.

The last 300km to Tehran was over in a flash as we were entertained by every 2 nd vehicle's interest in us as they passed with open smiles, shouting ‘where you from?' and their exuberant waving as they welcomed us to their country. By nightfall we somehow found our way to the Indian Embassy (with the help of the locals who are prepared to lead you as far as they know) through the hectic capital which probably has the most impatient drivers who disregard every possible road rule – this somehow reminded us of Cairo !! We slept in one of the side streets close by so that we could apply for our visas as soon as they opened. They were however closed the next day and after getting info from the Pakistan Consulate, we walked the streets of Tehran doing a bit of shopping and searching for internet access. Needing a letter of introduction for our visa applications, we negotiated our way to northern Tehran to overnight in yet another side street close to the South African Embassy. GR1 explored a bit of the more modern side of town that night, checking out the local shops, people watching and tasting a local dish called ‘ash' (a thick broth with chickpeas, beans, noodles and loads of mint), followed by ‘halim' (sweet cinnamon vermicelli dish).

The next day our friendly South African Embassy not only obliged with the letter of introduction but made us feel at home – a reflection of Ambassador Saloojee's leadership. We then just managed to hand in our applications at the Indian Embassy before an eventful drive south through Tehran 's lively but chaotic streets. The Islamic Revolutionary guards stopped us while trying to videotape the beautiful Sepahsalar Mosque which we did not realize was forbidden. After an hour of more guards and the language barrier we were allowed to continue after erasing the images – quite an experience! Again with locals greeting and leading us, we arrived at Behesht-e Zahra, probably the world's largest graveyard and resting place for the million who died in the Iran-Iraq war. It is also the site of the shrine of Emam Khomeini which although still a work in progress, had a special atmosphere. We spent the next 2 nights in the street of the Indian Embassy visiting them daily to expedite the visas. GR1 had the honour of spending most of the 22 nd September with the hospitable Iranian siblings Shirin and Mohamed Vosooghi whom we met when Shirin walked past our vehicles and offered us bread. Jo-Anne cooked some curry and we tasted their ‘ghorme sabzi' (a spinach/vegetable dish with meat and red beans) and ‘gheyme bademjan' (a brinjal/split pea dish). What a beautiful day learning about their culture, political attitudes and Shirin's talents as a designer while Jade and Dane gorged themselves on children's TV. It was tough to part ways after over 8 hours of sharing so much. GR3 elected to do some shopping and spent the afternoon in Talequani Forest Park interacting with the locals who were enjoying the public holiday. The next 3 days was negotiating Tehran 's chaos between the Indian and Pakistani Embassies, trying to push for the visas while spending the nights in side streets closest to either embassy or in Talequani Park . Despite the wait and frustration, we met loads of inquisitive friendly locals, from athletes, kick boxers to families who invited us to share picnics in the park – freely sharing fruit, chai, seeds to grilled chicken kebabs while the kids enjoyed the play area and even learned to play badminton and volleyball. The activity in the park however made it difficult to sleep even after midnight, making the noise of passing vehicles preferable when wild camping in a side street in the city. GR1 also revisited Shirin and Mohamed, this time enjoying ‘abgusht' (a meaty stew with potatoes and chickpeas which is mashed) and sanjak bread, followed by a delicious chocolate cake – something we hadn't tasted in a while!

By this time our 20 day visa for Iran was close to expiry but we were blessed to have met a literature professor, Hossein Tashayed who assisted with the red tape of extending our visas at a police station. Then a young man by the name of Morteza who was our guide around Tehran for 2 days, led us to the elusive diesel filling stations and side streets to fill our gas cylinders, exquisite mosques where typical Islamic art and culture where being exhibited – notably the Quran in every possible language (South Africa represented in Afrikaans!). He also joined us for an overnight trip across the rugged Alborz Mountains on the 28 th of September to the Mazandaran Province and the Caspian Sea . We spent the night in the vehicles at his family's ‘villa' at Sisangan after passing through Nur and having to break the lock of the gate to enter the property – but that's another story!

After driving to the foot of the dense slopes of the Alborz to Noshahr the next morning, we had to head back to Tehran as our Pakistani visas were apparently ready and Eid was in 2 days. The unexpected green terrain again changed back into the dry brown as we crossed the winding mountains to height of 2500m – awesome scenery. After 10 days in Tehran we finally secured our onward visas and could really sink our teeth into Iran . A great finale to Tehran was a last drive through the terrible traffic to pick up our half filled gas cylinders, eventually with Gary and Dean both on a 100cc motorcycle with a local swerving through the chaos. We then drove south and wild camped at a stop just short of Ghom, the Mullah City and centre of Shi'ism. A fitting introduction that night was the 4am calling to prayer at the roadside mosque in the middle of nowhere that went on for almost an hour and included quite an emotional tearful sermon! Ghom's star attraction was the Shrine of Fatima, Emam Reza's sister who died in the 9 th century, but the buildings were constructed by the Safavids. We could only walk around and peep into the entrance portal to see the magnificent golden cupola and tile work as non Muslims were not allowed inside. So onwards via Kashan, an oasis town, to visit Shah Abbas I's classical Persian Finn garden, prized for its natural springs and palace.

By sunset we were in Esfahan with its treed boulevards, abundant gardens and inspiring architectural Islamic monuments covered with superbly decorated cool blue tiles. This was the Safavid dynasty's centre in the 16 th century under Shah Abbas I. We were immediately recognised by a carpet shop owner as foreigners and he took us to a few hotels in the area. We checked into the Hakim Hotel, for a three night stay. What a joy - clean white sheets, showers and even a TV! GR1 slept in the first day before tackling the famous sights while GR3, up early due to Zack's 6 th birthday, hit the sights – from the 1612 Emam Square where Polo was once played and is dominated by the Masjed-e Emam which is completely covered inside and out with sumptuous tile work and calligraphy with complex stalactite mouldings. The massive square is also lined by the 7 storey royal palace Kakh-e Ali Ghapu and the smaller Sheikh Lotfollah mosque, another architectural jewel. Other highlights were the Abassi Hotel a revamped caravanserai, Chehel Sotun which was the Safavid's reception hall with 20 massive wooden columns leading to a beautifully painted friezed interior and Hasht Behesht, a paradise garden with the prince's palace. Another day was for a taxi ride across the Zayande River and attractive 1602 Si O Se Pol (bridge of 33 arches) to Jolfa, the Armenian Christian Quarter. Vank Cathedral was the main draw with its richly painted interior with scenes from the bible and of purgatory. The museum in the complex had rather disturbing photos of the Turkish atrocities in WW1 and Armenian cultural and religious artefacts, including gospels dating back to the 9 th century. Unfortunately we just had a taste of Esfahan 's enormous bazaar as most of the shops were closed over Eid and the long weekend, but that did not stop either vehicle from adding to their 4 tons! GR1 also had the pleasure of having more delicious ‘ash', fruit and chai with a delightful local family picnicking in the 8 paradise garden – thanks to Amir Ashkani for giving us a taste of your warm hospitality.

By the 3 rd of October we had to move 300km southeast via Na'in to Yazd , which dates back to Sassanian times (3 rd century AD) and also on the old silk route. This town is almost completely the colour of clay as the traditional buildings are all covered by a mixture of straw and clay – quite exotic to walk between these high walls through narrow labyrinthine alleys that crisscross the old town. We were back to street camping in the vehicles sleeping 2 nights alongside a park while walking during the day to absorb the atmosphere and sights. Alexander the Great had a prison in this network of alleys – a deep pit that is now a tea house, right next door to the 11 th century Seljuk tomb of the 12 Emams – now an empty forgotten mausoleum. Again the mosques had us gaping with their beautifully tiled portals, minarets and domes adorned with mosaics. The 14 th century Masjed-e Jame and Amir Chakhmagh were particularly striking as was the mausoleum of Sayyed Ja'far, decorated with thousands of mirror tiles. An interesting feature of Yazd were the many tall wind towers called badgirs on rooftops designed to catch any breeze, directing it down to cool buildings or water reservoirs below. Lunch at the Abolmali Bathroom tea house proved to be equally delightful. The final evening in Yazd GR1 attended an ancient Persian ritual of preparation for war in a badger with a sunken pit where males went through an hour of training with heavy objects to simulate a battle – all accompanied by drumming and singing. Then the lure of Persian carpets had us smitten! Yazd is also the centre of Zoroastrian religion for those who follow Zartosht who was born around 550 BC and the Parsees are of the first people to postulate an omnipotent invisible God. They worship fire as a symbol of God and the fire temple at Ateshkade has a sacred flame that has been burning since 470 AD! After a 2 hour search for Dakhme-ye-Zartoshti known as the ‘towers of silence' where their dead were exposed on hilltops for the attention of vultures (this continued until the 1940's), we decided to use this as a lunch stop admiring the view instead of climbing the hill in the heat. We eventually headed 400km south towards Shiraz , camping just below the illuminated cliff tombs of Naghsh-e Rostam. This is the burial site of the kings of the Achaemenian period (500 – 300 BC) and their massive scale and design made it one of the more special places to wild camp. We were officially in the province of Fars , an area first settled by the Persians and centre of the great Achaemenian Empire.

On exploring the tombs the next morning we also discovered reliefs of the Sassanian Dynasty cut into the rock below the facades of the tombs, depicting scenes of imperial conquests. After a 4km drive we were at Persepolis , Darius I's magnificent palace complex built in 512 BC on a plateau carved out of a mountain slope. What a pity Alexander sacked and burned this ‘city of Parsa ' to the ground in 331 BC as the ruins we saw were just a shadow of its former glory, yet remarkable! On entering Xerxes gateway the grandeur depicted by detailed massive rock sculptures and superb reliefs of battles, then the parade of nations which show people and animals bearing tribute to the king at the Apadana blew our minds as we gaped at their palace ruins.

By late afternoon we were in Shiraz , the provincial capital since the 7 th century AD. Its claim to fame is as a centre of learning and architecture, particular during Karim Khan's reign in the 1700's. It was also once famed for its Shiraz grape known to wine lovers. We visited the popular rulers imposing royal Citadel, his octagonal pavilion which was once his tomb and now houses the Pars museum, before more jaw dropping mosques – the ancient (894 AD) Jame e Atigh, the dazzling mirrored mausoleum Shah e Cheragh and regents mosque with a magnificent inner courtyard leading to a vaulted Mehrab with 48 huge columns. All with amazingly detailed, colourful workmanship. A visit to the city wouldn't be complete without seeing the marbled shrine of Hafez , Iran 's celebrated poet who died in 1389. Finally, the 250 year old vaulted brick Vakil Bazaar's architecture and atmosphere seduced us, and with its infinite array of beautiful goods we again bought more than anticipated, but far less than we desired! After 2 nights in the basic Aria Hotel at $30 a night, we had to leave, and on the 8 th October we continued east via Neiriz where we had tea with a local family before continuing to Sirjan.

For our safety the police stopped us and insisted on escorting the vehicles all the way to the remote city of Kerman – 170km of 6 different relay teams and flashing lights that took 4 hours. Our 540km had taken 12 hours of solid driving. We were led to a central park where we spent the next 2 nights in the vehicles always within sight of the police and army. We were at least free to sight-see the next day and visited another picturesque bazaar, mosques and an interesting old Hammum (the Ganjali Khan museum) with an exhibition of waxworks of men in traditional roles. The highlight of the day was an authentic lunch in an atmospheric subterranean teahouse inside Bazar-e-Vakil with an Iranian family. Local music and song complemented the tastiest stews that we've had in Iran . That evening GR1 was invited to the enormous home of the Gang Ali Khan Hakemi family who we met that morning and who spoiled us with fruit, biscuits, dates, ice-cream and when we were filled, they served the tastiest kebabs and lavash bread!! The exercise to escape the guards who were too concerned with our safety to allow us out of their sight was well worth the effort!! GR3 however, while at the teahouse learnt from a local guide that there are opium smugglers kidnapping tourists in order to use them as ransom to have their relatives released from jail – but this may be all hear-say!!

Our final day in this hospitable country was again under guard as we travelled the 500km east to Zahedan. The relay of police vehicles often accompanied in our vehicles by heavily armed personnel – at one stage even with rocket launches mounted on the back of a Land Cruiser for the stretch through the desert mountains!! We managed to pop in en route to just view the ruins of the desert medieval town of Bam , famous for its dates – unfortunately the mud brick citadel was destroyed in an earthquake 5 years ago. The night of the 10 th October we slept outside the police headquarters in the dusty, featureless town of Zahedan , known for its trade in narcotics as a result of it being 50km from the Afghan border. According to the police we had nothing to worry about for now, Pakistan however, they regarded as dangerous!!

On the 11 th October at 8:30am, we attempted the final 100km to the border town of Mirjave but with much frustration as we tried to find diesel having frequent police escort changes within the city. By 10am we eventually got the elusive diesel and were on our way with yet another change of police. It took us about 6 hours to do the 100km! To keep our sanity, we believe these are all signs to practise our patience to what is waiting ahead!!

The trying 5 weeks in this challenging country has been completely overshadowed by its interesting history and friendly, hospitable people. Mersi to all we have had the good fortune of crossing paths with. Khodafez Iran !

Armed with a 30 day visa for Pakistan , a valid carnet and hoping for an escort to the Indian Border, our plan is to transit through Pakistan as fast as we can - hopefully in less than 4 days but reading the Pakistan Lonely Planet, things sound very interesting and we could be in for a pleasant surprise!