Estonia – 15 July 2008

Tere - to the first of the 3 Baltic states. We decided to head directly south towards the Middle East, giving Russia a miss due to expensive delays with visa requirements and concerns about safety. A 3 hour ferry trip across the gulf of Finland and we were in the capital, Tallinn . Since independence from the USSR in 1991, this country seems to have blossomed. But Estonia's history has been one of occupation and domination from the times when Finno-Ugric tribes from the east mixed with the resident Baltic tribes in the 3 rd millennium BC, to Germany's control in the 14 th century and Russia's heavy hand from the 18 th century. As we had not planned to be in Estonia , it was a refreshing awakening to discover such a wonderful jewel of a medieval old town, also UNESCO protected. From a dubious parking spot we first approached Toompea, the upper town with the impressive 19 th century Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral facing the Toopea Castle, Estonia's traditional seat of power.

From Toomkirik, the country's oldest church dating back to 1240, we descended through a gate in the defensive old wall to the lower town. With cameras overheating, we reached the Town Hall square, the centre of Tallinn life since the 12 th century. We decided to split and meet for a late buffet lunch at the Eesti Maja Restaurant. Between colourful facades of different era buildings, paths lead to a 600 year old pharmacy (oldest in Europe ), 13 th century Dominican monastery and numerous churches. Add side walk cafes with traditionally dressed waitresses enticing tourists to taste the local treats of roasted almonds in a range of spices, makes Tallinn a ‘must-see'! Unfortunately the buffet never happened and GR1 arrived back at the vans over an hour late having to wait a very long time for their meal!! This however, is a tiny country and we were soon on the road again popping in at Parnu, a seaside resort town, before bush camping along the road near Latvia . Short but sweet – Head Aega Estonia !