COSTA RICA - 7th to 18th December 2009

Introduction

A peaceful oasis in a tumulus region, Costa Rica has gorgeous Pacific and Caribbean coasts with a dense green mountainous interior. Known as Ticos, these laid back friendly people are mostly Mestizo with indigenous groups composing only 1% of the population.

Background and History

Costa Rica 's rainforests served as an intersection for Native American cultures for over 10 000 years and were mostly organised into chiefdoms. Columbus arrived in 1502 and called the area the ‘ Rich Coast '. Luckily the lack of mineral resources unwittingly gave the country the opportunity to develop under weaker colonial influences and 3 centuries of small-holdings type agriculture developed instead of the typical colonial powerful land holding elite – but at the cost of indigenous people's lives. With all of Central America wriggled free of Spain 's grip in 1821, Costa Rica grew prosperous in the 19 th century first from coffee, then from bananas in the early 20 th century. Early politics had a similar pattern of violence and dictatorship until the country's unique unarmed democracy (no military) evolved after a 2 month civil war in 1948. Since then Costa Rica has enjoyed peace and political stability even though US pressure allowed the Contras to set up camp on their soil in the 70's. Ecotourism, big business developments and a strategic alliance with the USA are the modern currents.

Our Experience

After a $4 fumigation and $16 for insurance, we continued down the Interamerican highway to Liberia for fuel, an ATM and a Burger King whopper meal! Neat towns, great roads and a mix of dry tropical forests and ranches in Guanacaste led to remote Pacific beaches. A cute apartment with a pool at Playa Hermosa (for $50) was a welcome break from wild camping and internet services provided the opportunity to narrow down on shipping options to South America.

Midday on the 8 th we continued the beach hop down the Nicoya Peninsular to Playa Tamarindo. A wide grey sand crescent bay, this pretty beach had a perfect parking spot on the sand near a river's estuary. Being December we now felt as if we were on holiday, swimming, walking at sunset, browsing souvenir shops or just watching the many surfers.

By midmorning the next day and a 100km further through this beautiful country via Nicoya , we were in Playa Samara - another gorgeous crescent bay with just the right blend of rustic restaurants and accommodation spilling on to the beach in between palms and jungle. After a few failed attempts at guidebooks recommendations, we landed a free spot under coco palms on Hotel Casa del Mar's beach front parking. The rest of the day was blissful as was the next days beach life, only interrupted by batidos (fruit shake) and casado at a local soda (casual diner that serves a home-style lunch of meat, rice, beans, pickled cabbage and salad). Jo-Anne assisted Christian, a cool surfer teacher who runs Ticos Surf and Tours with his logo and as a result Dane and Jade got free surfing lessons. To everyone's amazement they both just stood up and rode the first wave and were hooked. This is the place to learn to surf and the kids were fortunate to have a great teacher. The evening we spent with a Hungarian/American couple living in Samara for the past year who were totally fascinated with the vehicle and our journey. With Brad fuelling Dane's new found passion, visiting racoons and pisotes (coates) came around in their garden for a bite to eat. It was tough to leave this bit of paradise but potential shipping arrangements to South America were materializing and we had learnt that NYK Shipping lines were offering a ‘pro bono' opportunity to ship on the 15 th . Even though this would cut our time short in Cost Rica, it was something not to be missed!

We left on the 11 th after the kids had their fill of surfing the waves. The lush interior beckoned and 130km later we'd climbed 1300m into the cloud forest of Monteverde – the last 20km on a steep stony dirt road. Monteverde Hostel in St. Elena with free internet was the perfect spot to finalize Tipperdee's shipping and to acquire a board to block the living area from the front as we had heard horror stories of vehicles been vandalised during ro-ro.

Having only a few days left in Costa Rica we rather decided to leave this greenbelt and head for the Pacific coast. The adventure type tourist activities were just too expensive so the views from Tipperdee had to suffice. The closest decent beach to our departure port was touristy Jaco with its black sand bay. Hotel Kangaroo was our home for 2 nights with a pool, free laundry service (due to the slightly intoxicated owner eyeing Jo-Anne) and a backpacker atmosphere. Our family expanded to include 2 great Irish guys (Senan and Eugene), spunky Spanish Amanda and knowledgeable American Andrew. We shared stories, knowledge, meals and the guys taught Dane to surf the great breaks while the girls decided to stay back and do the necessary laundry and relaxed around the poolside. More sad farewells to our new friends on the 14 th and after an hours drive we were in Puerto Caldera to organise Tipperdee's shipping to Buenaventura , Colombia .

We were delighted when the customs agents (Humberto Alvarez) agreed to do all paperwork for free as well that saved us a good few thousand dollars – the only expense being a $5 municipal fee! Donny Jimenez was a star, organising everything and making our task relatively easy in this well organised port. By lunchtime we sealed the cabin part of Tipperdee with the ply-board for her ro-ro journey to Buenaventura aboard the MV Prometheus Leader V.18 and the kind Donny gave us a lift to the bus station.

We were back to public transport and the backpacker lifestyle. Three hours later we were in cold, dark San Jose at an altitude of over a kilometre. Travelling ultra light with only one change of summer wear (including bathing costumes) we did not welcome this cold weather! As the bus station was in a rather seedy looking part of town, we hopped right into a taxi to Pangia Backpackers – but brochures can paint an amazing illusion. At $30 (and a sudden jump to $45 the next day) the atmosphere, noise and sleeping areas were just not worth it. But we could utilize the free internet in search of flights now as Tipperdee was organised. It was major stress to get reasonable flight prices in time to meet Tipperdee on her arrival. With it being the festive season, prices were double to triple, recommended travel agencies were useless and electronic booking sites tough to arrange payment as non US citizens! We eventually found tickets for $2500 through edreams that arrived in Colombia on the 22 nd Dec, but payment checking couldn't immediately confirm our passage. So left in limbo, we changed accommodation to the homely Tranquillo Backpackers which also included free fruit and pancakes for breakfast, with internet and a great choice of movies too. At least we hooked up with Amanda again and together we enjoyed a ‘tipico' lunch and explored the rather hectic festive seasons' plazas and streets.

We found another travel site, ‘expedia' with earlier and cheaper flights, but it was difficult to get hold of edreams to cancel our tickets and after emailing and contacting our bank, the tickets had evaporated. The search continued and we were forced to split up with Gary and Dane having to fly out through expedia on the 19 th Dec for $764 and the girls leaving on the 24 th Dec for a hefty $ 1147, thanks to another travel agent. A terrible prospect to be apart for 5 days, but least we were organized with Gary arriving in time to collect Tipperdee before exorbitant warehousing fees kicked in. With all our running around, our neglected kids had time to enjoy the full Lords of the Rings trilogy and even surprised us with some spontaneous schoolwork!

With two days to kill and our 20 year anniversary around the corner, we decided to spoil ourselves at a bit more upmarket accommodation back on the warmer pacific coast. On the 17 th we were on a 4 hour bus ride back southeast to beautiful Manuel Antonio. Inn on the Park was comfortable with a pool, cable TV and right at the entrance to the N.P., perfect for our last two nights together in Central America . While the kids enjoyed the pool we first secured the girls extra 5 night stay at Coco Beach Hotel for $30 per night, then went for a long beach walk and a swim in the rough surf.

Our final full day together in Costa Rica started with a jungle walk through Manuel Antonio N.P. with sightings of deer, white-faced monkeys, racoons, a sloth sleeping in a tree and abundant birdlife. The highlight was ending up at the gorgeous jungle enveloped white sand 3 rd beach where we spent the rest of the morning until rain forced us back to the hotel. It came down in torrents for the rest of the day and our romantic dinner plans were replaced by an assortment of different dishes in our room from a nearby backpacker hostel that Gary had to get in the rain!

On the 19 th Dec we parted ways with heavy hearts and the boys were back on the 4 hour bus to San Jose international airport to fly to Bogota, the Colombian capital and then to Cali, the closest city to Buenaventura where Tipperdee would be arriving on the 21 st . The girls had 5 days more of beach bumming until they followed the same route on the 24 th to meet up on another continent for the Globeriders final odyssey.

Adios amigos, muchas gracias and mucho gusto. PURA VIDA!

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