COLOMBIA - 19th to 30 December 2009

Introduction

Colombia is shaking off its sour reputation as a result of security improvements and its green diverse physical geography is inhabited by warm, friendly people with a passion to party. They are mostly an amalgam of indigenous Spanish and African blood with just 1% pure indigenous descendants.

Background and History

Pre-Columbian tribes migrated here from Panama and settled in small groups all over the country, developing independent cultures. Then the first conquistador arrived in 1499 and by the 16 th century two independent Spanish groups advanced towards the interior from the north and south, fighting for supremacy. Towards the end of the 18 th century protests and rebellions paved the road to independence in 1819. Gran Colombia also included Ecuador , Panama and Venezuela , but the state disintegrated into separate countries in 1830. Conservatives and liberals could never find common ground and the result was chaos and 8 civil wars into the 20 th century. In 1903, the USA used the strife to forge a secessionist movement in Panama , creating a new republic of one of Colombia 's provinces. After a period of relative peace, the same partisan conflict resulted in ‘La Violencia' in 1948, ending in a military coup and a pact to share power. Suppression of all political activity however gave birth to a dozen guerrilla groups (notably FARC, ELN and M-19 in the 60's) that still control over 40% of the country. Right wing paramilitary groups mushroomed against the rebels and further complicate the scene with cocaine cartels from all groups using terror tactics to fuel violence since the 70's. The hardliner new government has disarmed numerous rebels and improved security in the 21 st century has given new hope for peace.

Our Experience

Gary and Dane arrived in Bogota , Colombia around midnight on the 19 th Dec and took a taxi to Iguana Guest House in Cali . They had the daunting task to retrieve Tipperdee from the Port Authorities in Buenaventura while the girls still had 5 days of sunning in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica before their journey to Colombia . The city of Cali is known for its Latino ambience with salsa music flowing from every moving vehicle, restaurant and club. It was surreal just exploring the city without the girls after a typical Colombian omelette breakfast served in a pan. We made a loop through the main drag and through the park along the Rio Cali that was filled with colourful plastic sculptures symbolizing their way of life. Scenes of the culture at play unfolded as we entered into the Old Town with the typical Spanish Plaza de Caycedo bordered by a cathedral and National Palace . The 16 th century Iglesia de la Merced really had the feel of an old community church and we arrived just in time to witness a 1 st communion celebration.

Covered in garbage bags as rain pelted down on Monday the 21 st, we made our way to the bus station – how we missed Tipperdee! A harrowing 3 hour trip in a minivan through the mountains took us to the Pacific port of Buenaventura . As the gods would have it, we happened to sit next to the only English speaking person, Louis Alfonso Hincapie, who not only introduced us to this city of mainly unpaved roads and shacks, but paved our way to getting Tipperdee. After visiting his humble home, a local jeep ride took us to the busy city centre where the ordeal began. We went from one custom agent to the next and eventually to the customs director where we stumbled onto Jefferson Valencia Lucumi. This amicable guy would guide us as we searched for clues to unravel the mystery of obtaining Tipperdee. After this achievement we booked into the Gran Hotel for the next 2 nights. The following day Gary headed off alone to complete the mission leaving Dane to fend himself as kids were not allowed in the port - nor adults with shorts and sandals! I had to buy pants and borrow shoes as all our clothes were in Tipperdee! No one could speak English at the port and rest of the day was getting endless paperwork signed and photocopied for different offices scattered throughout the port and town. All this was accomplished on Jefferson 's scooter as we zipped around waiting for the next requirement and I still have no idea what exactly was required! After a total of 18 hours and a stack of paperwork we eventually found Tipperdee at 10pm. Unfortunately she was vandalised, and all our trinkets that were mounted on the dashboard were removed plus my spectacles and little books with our petrol logs and financial records were taken from the cubby hole. Luckily the ply board we had mounted before the shipping stood firm but evidence showed that they attempted to get to the back but were unsuccessful. By 11pm security eventually let us out of the port and Tipperdee spent the night outside the Hotel Estacion next to an army barracks. Dane in the meantime spent the whole day watching TV, writing his diary and reading his story book. He was kind enough to save some of the food that I had organised for him during the course of the day for myself! The next night we joined her in the parking lot after shopping and had to clean and reorganise things for the jaunt through on our last continent (or rather before Jo-Anne got to the vehicle!)

The 24 th dawned and with the knowledge that the ladies were on their 4 hour bus trip to San Jose 's airport, we made our way up the western northern Andes to Cali . Just as we left the outskirts of Buenaventura a police check delayed us for nearly an hour insisting that we have Colombian insurance to continue, but with all offices closed for the next 3 days I had to beg, plead then threaten them with bad publicity of their country's attitude to tourists. They eventually agreed to turn a blind eye warning me that if an accident should occur, we would be in jail into 2010!! We then proceeded very cautiously to be in time for our date with the girls the following day. The recent rains though caused mudslides that blocked many parts of the road and the 120km climb took 3 hours. We wild camped the night at a gas station just outside the airport, excited for the reunion on Christmas day!

What a joy to be a family again on the 25 th , but the girls were bushed and spent most of the day sleeping at Iguana Guest House. Cali 's annual festival, Feria de Cali, kicked off with a parade of Salsa clubs called ‘salsodromo' later the day. We made our way to the action in the south of the city by late afternoon but by then the crowds were just too hectic and we managed just a glimpse of the colourful energy. Kids were also unfortunately not allowed into the stadium for the drunken revelry of the opening concert (not that they were spared in the streets!!), so we were left to walk the streets filled with human activity and stumbled upon an amusement park. Dane had the nerve to ride on a hair raising boat and tried his skill on a mechanical bull, but the rest of us were rather sceptical of the safety standards of this rough and ready rides.

The 26 th Jo made a belated tasty Christmas lunch of coconut chicken curry and the adults joined some backpackers for an evening of drunken debauchery and dancing at ‘Concerto Joven'. The next day we felt the wrongs of the previous evening and spent the day recovering, socialising and just chilling at homely Iguana Guesthouse. Despite all of us developing some viral infection, we attempted another parade on the 28 th and again hordes of people made good views impossible. We rather rested and spoilt ourselves the evening with dinner at a Chinese restaurant.

Early on the 29 th the owner of Iguana helped Gary to obtain the ‘compulsory' Colombian liability insurance ($33) to drive the roads and by 10am we enjoyed empanadas (deep fried pastry filled with vegetable and meat) as we finally hit the road south with a detour to Silvia. This small town is the centre of the Guambianos, one of Colombia 's most traditional indigenous communities who come down from their mountain homes to sell produce and handicrafts on Tuesdays. It's quite a festive colourful gathering with both sex's in hand woven garments and beaded necklaces with women busily spinning wool while the men got totally sloshed on the local brew! Well stocked with cheap fruit, veg and after chicken tamales, we headed for the white washed colonial city of Popayan . Founded in 1537 this bustling city is packed with churches and adjoined buildings making it virtually impossible to find accommodation with safe off street parking. So just outside the historic centre, we spent the night at a gas station.

The next day was one of the most scenic drives on our journey. The 6 hour 240km through the country's diverse south western Andean mountains took us through lush jungle with mangos and bananas literally spilling onto the road, then down to dry harsh folds of earth that struggle to support life and heart wrenching poverty around every corner. Then we were up again into the cloud forest near 3000m in the cold, rainy city of Pasto . A drive through the busy, colourful streets led to the rather forlorn outskirts in a desperate search for suitable accommodation. We found a rather strange but clean and comfortable Motel Venus with great views of the city – and ourselves in the apartment's overhead ceiling mirrors which came complete with x-rated movies, condoms and other paraphernalia!

On the final day of 2009, 80km of more stunning scenery surrounded us to the border town of Ipialis where we stumbled upon a street parade of massive puppets that satirised politicians and celebrities to the rhythm of salsa music. This end of year event is called the ‘viudas del ano viejo' and was just the perfect send off to an eventful year and to Colombia with its festive culture.

Adios amigos.

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